After months of planning and thoughtful research, I designed and built my own chicken coop from scratch. I could have bought one of the prefab kits online, but after looking them over and reading reviews, they simply wouldn’t withstand the weather on the Colorado plains. I needed something a lot more sturdy and heavy so it wouldn’t blow away in the 50 mph winds we are frequently subjected to out east.
A lot of thought went into the design. I had to take many things into consideration such as location, orientation, roof pitch, building materials, windows, doors, sunlight and cost. I’ll step through each one of my thoughts and why I implemented the ideas.
From what folks have told me, chicken poop stinks. Which doesn’t surprise me, because all poop stinks. So I placed the coop deep in the backyard away from the house (we have 1/2 acre). The orientation of the coop faces south so the winter sun shines through the coop’s windows. I’m hoping it will help keep the eggs from freezing since it will also be shining on the nesting box.
I designed a mono-pitch roof with the low side facing north so the northerly winds would have less surface area to blow against as opposed to the less frequently southerly winds. This will hopefully stop it from blowing over. However, I don’t think this will be a problem since it weighs a lot.
Chicken Entry and Exit Door
The chicken door was a pretty easy decision. I couldn’t put it in the southern facing wall, because it would have interfered with the nesting box location. I couldn’t put it on the north side of the coop, because the winter wind would blow straight into the coop. The east and west sides would also get some wind.
The logical place was in the floor of the coop with a small ramp. This way, there would be minimal wind blowing into the coop. In addition, the underside of the coop is caged in with welded wire and serves as a small chicken run.
The ramp has little pieces of wood glued to it so the chicken can get some traction. Without them, I’m not sure the chickens will be able to climb up the ramp. Unlike most other birds, chickens can’t wrap their toes around objects.
I tried to keep my costs down, but in reality the coop probably ran over $900. This is more than I wanted to spend, but I know it will last a long time since I built it out of 2×4’s, used exterior siding, and rolled roofing.
The floor of the coop is made of 5/8″ pressure treated plywood. This will give it good strength and prevent it from warping. The coop sits about 3 feet off the ground, also supported by 4×6 pressure treated posts. I used regular pine for the studs and the trusses. The exterior walls are made of a prefab siding panel. It has a texture to it which makes it look better than just a piece of plywood.
I put in a roof vent so the hot humid air can escape out the top. Humidity in the coop is really bad for chickens. It can actually kill them, so I sacrificed a little warmth for good ventilation. I may add insulation, but I’m not sure it’s worth it. The chickens should remain warm enough as long as they are out of the wind and can huddle together during the cold nights.
We had them living in the house for the first 3 weeks under a heat lamp, starting with a 90°F temperature which we reduced by 5°F per week. On the fourth week, we moved them into the coop and they have been there ever since. They are now 7 weeks old. The temperature at night gets down around 55°F but they seem to be doing just fine.
I’m really not sure what kind of chickens we got. The kids each picked out two, and the wife and I each picked one. I really don’t care too much what they are. I just don’t want a rooster!
Food and Water
Winter is fast approaching and I’m still mulling over ideas on how to stop the water from freezing. I could simply buy a heated dog bowl, but I’m not too fond of this idea. I could also bring new water out every morning before work, but I’d rather not do that either. I’ve got an idea about heat tape, but I need to find PVC piping that is safe for drinking water. I’ve seen a lot of folks use the PCV pipe from Home Depot and Lowes, but that is not meant for potable water. Chemicals leach from the plastic and it’s not good for the chickens, or you. Those chemicals will be passed on into the eggs.
If you do want to use PVC pipe, you have to make sure it has the markings “NSF pw-G” or “NSF-61”. This will indicate the pipe is safe for potable water, but this stuff is hard to come by. I’ll probably end up buying an emergency water storage tank that is NSF-61 certified, PEX piping and some sort of hamster-type watering dispenser. I’ll then wrap the heat tape around the tank and along the PEX, which should stop it from freezing.
I will however use PVC for the food dispenser. I was thinking about 6″ PVC pipe, then reducing it to 2″ pipe that will gravity feed inside the coop and also below to the chicken run. Since the food is dry, I won’t have to worry about leaching issues. I figure the PVC pipe will hold about 1 weeks worth of food. Longer than that during the non-winter months when they can free-range feed throughout our backyard.
Our trusty ‘ol Australian Cattle Dog and Shepperd mix hasn’t caused us any issues. We let her sniff the chicks from the very beginning when they were very young and always lets her be around them (supervised). I was very nervous at first because the chicks were tiny and our dog would lick her chops just staring at them. In short time, she learned these are not food and not to be tormented. I now trust her enough to be left alone with the chicks.
At times, I think her instincts to herd kicks in, although she just kind of moves them around with no purpose. When she gets bored with that and lays down, the chicks have no problem coming up to her, and she seems to enjoy it.
I’m hoping her presence will be enough to ward off any predators, likes hawks and foxes, which do live in the area. We also had a pack of coyotes a couple years back, but we haven’t seen them since.
Update – Additional Chicken Run, Food and Water Solution
Over the last couple months, I’ve added onto the chicken coop. I built an 8×8 foot (64 square feet) chicken run on the west side in addition to the existing 8×4 foot (32 square feet) run under the coop. The smaller run wasn’t going to be enough when the chickens got bigger and additional space was needed. I read online that each chicken needs to have about 10 square feet of “space”. I don’t exactly know how that number is derived, but they now have plenty of room to run around. This is where I have hung the feeder and the waterer.
I also changed my mind about the feed. I ended up buying one that hangs from a hook. The feeder holds about 20 lbs of food, which is enough to last a couple weeks. I also bought a water dispenser that hold about 5 gallons of water. It should last about 2 weeks. To stop it from freezing, I added 6 feet of heat tape and painted it black (after this picture was taken). But it only works when it’s greater than 20°F outside. Colder than that, and the bottom freezes.
Other Chicken Articles